Marseille has always had a reputation. Depending on who you ask, it’s gritty, chaotic, edgy, fascinating, dangerous, vibrant, authentic – or all of those things at once.
It is a city that seems to divide opinion like few others in France.
After spending a day rediscovering Marseille last week, I found myself wondering whether much of its reputation is simply decades out of date.
It had been several years since my last visit. I travelled there on a work trip with a friend, expecting to enjoy the city as I always had, but I wasn’t expecting to be genuinely surprised by just how much it has evolved.
From the moment we arrived, Marseille reminded me why it has captivated visitors for over 2,600 years.
Video via Le Monde De Jamy – France Télévisions on YouTube
Founded around 600 BC by Greek sailors from Phocaea in present-day Turkey, Marseille – then known as Massalia – is considered the oldest city in France. Long before Paris became the political heart of the country, Marseille was already one of the Mediterranean’s great trading ports, welcoming merchants, explorers and immigrants from every corner of Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. That remarkable diversity remains one of the city’s defining characteristics today.
Walking through the streets between meetings, I couldn’t help but notice the energy everywhere.
Marseille has the grandeur and architectural confidence of Paris in many places, but with something the French capital can never offer: the constant presence of the Mediterranean. The salty sea breeze follows you through the streets, reminding you that this city has always looked outward to the world.
Courtesy Office de tourisme, des Loisirs et des Congrès de Marseille; photo joyanaomtcm
Courtesy Office de tourisme, des Loisirs et des Congrès de Marseille; photo mromtcm
Most of our time was spent around the famous Vieux-Port, where fishing boats still sit alongside luxury yachts and bustling cafés.
We wandered through the revitalized waterfront, explored the cruise terminal district, admired the impressive modern redevelopment around Les Docks, and of course made time to visit the spectacular Mucem – one of France’s most striking museums.
Opened in 2013 when Marseille was named European Capital of Culture, the Mucem transformed part of the city’s waterfront and helped signal a new chapter in Marseille’s story. Its intricate concrete lattice overlooking the sea has become as iconic as many of the city’s historic landmarks.
Photo © Jameson Farn
While my friend attended a meeting, I decided to head north of the port into neighbourhoods that some visitors might hesitate to explore.
I’ve always believed that the true character of a city reveals itself away from the postcard views.
Rather than finding an intimidating environment, I found lively streets filled with local businesses, families chatting outside cafés, neighbourhood markets, and a genuine sense of community. It felt authentic rather than manufactured.
Years ago, some of Marseille’s best nightlife could also be found in these districts, and I remember many unforgettable evenings discovering venues that rarely appeared in guidebooks. Returning brought back those memories while also showing how much the surrounding areas have continued to change.
Once we reunited, we spent the rest of the day covering as much ground as possible.
By the end of the day we had walked more than 30,000 steps, and honestly, I could have kept going.
Photo © Jameson Farn
Every neighbourhood seemed to offer something different. Historic churches stood beside bold contemporary architecture. Narrow streets opened onto grand boulevards. Traditional Provençal cafés shared the sidewalks with restaurants serving cuisine influenced by generations of immigration from Italy, Armenia, Algeria, Tunisia, Lebanon and beyond. Few cities in Europe wear their multicultural identity as proudly as Marseille.
Shopping was another pleasant surprise.
It seemed that every street revealed another collection of boutiques, independent retailers, markets or major brands. Whether you’re searching for luxury fashion, local artisan products, antiques, books or everyday essentials, Marseille appears to have it all.
One of the biggest changes I noticed, however, was simply how much cleaner the city felt.
Marseille hasn’t lost its urban edge, nor should it. Street art, colourful murals and layers of graffiti remain part of its visual identity, reflecting decades of artistic expression and social history. But overall, many areas felt noticeably better maintained than I remembered. Public spaces looked refreshed, infrastructure had improved, and the city projected a renewed sense of confidence.
Even driving felt easier than expected.
Despite visiting during the height of the summer tourist season, traffic flowed remarkably well. We had anticipated long delays but encountered only a few minutes of congestion leaving during rush hour – hardly worth mentioning in a city of nearly 900,000 residents.
Photo © Jameson Farn
The local tourism office also deserves recognition. Visitor information stands throughout the city were busy helping travellers navigate attractions, transportation and events, creating a welcoming first impression for newcomers.
Our meals were another reminder of why southern France is so beloved.
Breakfast and lunch were both excellent, featuring fresh ingredients, generous portions and attentive service. Prices felt reasonable for a major French city, especially considering the quality. Marseille’s food scene has always reflected its position as a Mediterranean crossroads, where Provençal traditions blend naturally with flavours from across the sea.
Getting there from the French Riviera was surprisingly straightforward.
We left Beaulieu-sur-Mer early in the morning and reached Marseille in about two and a half hours by car. The drive itself is part of the experience, with landscapes gradually transforming from lush green hills to dramatic limestone cliffs and the pale white stone that defines Provence around Marseille.
For those travelling by train from Nice takes roughly three hours and is equally rewarding, offering one of the most scenic railway journeys in France as the Mediterranean coastline unfolds outside your window.
Perhaps what impressed me most wasn’t any single attraction. It was the feeling.
Marseille has a confidence that can’t be manufactured. It doesn’t try to be polished in the same way as some other French cities. Instead, it embraces its complexity, its diversity and its imperfections. That authenticity is exactly what makes it so compelling.
Courtesy Office de tourisme, des Loisirs et des Congrès de Marseille; photo mromtcm
Like every major city, Marseille faces real challenges. No urban centre is without them. But reducing France’s second-largest city to outdated stereotypes does it a tremendous disservice.
Over the course of an entire day spent almost entirely on foot through a wide variety of neighbourhoods, we never once felt unsafe. We encountered welcoming people, efficient public transportation, beautiful architecture, fascinating history and a city that continues to reinvent itself while remaining true to its roots.
Marseille isn’t a place you simply visit. It’s a city you experience.
As we drove back toward the French Riviera that evening, one thing had become clear. One day simply wasn’t enough.
The next visit won’t be for work. It will be for an entire weekend, because Marseille still has countless stories waiting to be discovered – and I cannot wait to return.
PHOTO CREDITS
- Lead image by Carnet de Voyage d’Alex on Unsplash, licenced under the Unsplash License
- All other photos and video as credited
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