If after this long and hot summer you are ready for some cooler weather and quieter times, an early-autumn visit to the north coast of Brittany might just be perfect.
Time-weathered sandstone and granite cottages and half-timbered houses wherever you look. Meandering meadows with crooked stone fences and peacefully grazing sheep or cattle. Gardens filled to the brim with hydrangea, rose bushes, lavender, rosemary, and thyme, kept in that certain je-ne-sais quoi that English gardeners master to perfection… And that sweeping view of the rolling grey sea. Reminds you of something? Sussex? Hampshire? Cornwall? You’re not far off – just on the other side of the English Channel. To situate you on a map: if you were standing on a beach in Plymouth, UK, a 190 km (120-mile) swim would land you directly on one of the beaches of the Côte de Granit Rose.
This stretch, comprising the central northern coast of Brittany, is maybe not the best-known area of the Breton peninsula but definitely the most beautiful one. Yet, despite the endless sandy beaches, not many tourists venture here outside the summer holidays, fearing the moderate temperatures which rarely exceed 18°C (65°F) or the rather cool water temperatures of La Manche which average around 15-16°C (60°F). But what the weather lacks in muscle, the incredible historic and cultural heritage more than makes up for.
The “Pink Granite Coast,” as its name unsurprisingly translates, is a small peninsula stretching over only about 20 km (12 miles). And yet, it packs a punch. No less than four tiny, scenic towns of very distinct character – Trébeurden, Pleumeur-Bodou, Trégastel, and Perros-Guirec – hug the coastline. Perros-Guirec’s appendix Ploumanac’h was voted “the village most preferred by the French” in 2015. A little further inland, but still so close to the beaches you can almost walk from there, is Lannion, the biggest “town” (pop. 16,000) and its claim to fame – apart from breathtaking medieval architecture – is its 14th place in the 2023 lineup of 39,000 French communities assessed for their quality of life.
Sounds a bit quiet? Yes, it is, compared to the bigger cities in Brittany like Brest, Rennes, or even Saint-Malo. But that’s exactly the point. Here, you can disconnect from your devices and reconnect with nature. If parties, dance floors, or group activities are your vibe, you might want to pass this one up. Here, you are better served with walking shoes instead of high heels, a rain jacket instead of a sheer sundress, and a warm hoodie instead of that chic cashmere sweater. But if you are into low-key, sporty, environmentally conscious, and family-friendly vacations, you have come to the right place. There is even plenty to discover for the more cerebrally inclined.
Bretons are fiercely proud of their culture, and you quickly sense how alive it remains. The black and white Breizh flag is flown just about anywhere as a symbol of their stubborn resistance to anything “French”. The Breton language has found its way back into classrooms, street signs, and family life, while local festivals fill squares and village halls with traditional music, costume, and dance just about every weekend. This time of the year, when the harvest is in, is the perfect time to join a fest-noz, the weekly communal village festivals, happily shared with anyone willing to step in and take part. And don’t be surprised when you hear bagpipes – they are part of the local Gaelic tradition.
Planning Your Perfect Post-Summer Getaway to Brittany
Getting There
Easy access to public transportation is not one of the area’s strong points. A drive or even a train ride from Paris takes five hours. Your best bet is to take a plane to Brest. From there, rent a car and drive to the Pink Granite Coast. But be aware that there are no real highways in this remote part of Brittany. What looks like 100 km on the map will easily turn into a two-hour drive over small country roads. The reward: you will pass plenty of pretty villages and long stretches of glorious coastal vistas. Alternatively, you can fly into Rennes, which is a 2.5-hour drive away.
Small as the area is in terms of surface, you will need a car to get around. It is therefore a smart strategy to zero in on a central location. If you want to stay close to the coast, opt for Île Grande or Perros-Guirec, two picturesque tiny resorts with a great mix of local life and visitor amenities. If you want more of an urban vibe, yet a sense of the “real” Brittany, Lannion is your friend.
Your Home Away from Home
Forego Airbnb. For a much more authentic experience, tap into the excellent network of private guest houses, called Gîtes de France. Select the “22” region and pick a cozy maison de pêcheur (fisherman’s cottage), a stately maison de maître (villa), a posh studio overlooking the harbour, a pleasant B&B room at an owner’s house, or even a comfortable camping site – there is something for everyone at reasonable rates.
Food & Drink
The Bretons are maybe not the most adventurous folks when it comes to culinary delights. Their daily go-to are crêpes or galettes (sweet or savory pancakes), washed down with hard cider. Galette-saucisse is a classic, as is the galette complète, stuffed with egg, ham, and cheese; and a savory galette is usually chased by a sweet one. This love for such humble fare is surprising in an area where you have access to so much fresh seafood and fine beef. But historically, Brittany was home to simple and poor folks, selling the noble products to the rich city folks and contenting themselves with whatever their land would provide: lots of buckwheat and secondary animal products like eggs and butter. Kouign-amann is a prized specialty, a dense pastry made of equal parts of dough, butter, and sugar, and occasionally topped with caramel. The locals do have a serious sweet tooth!
If you are near a port, you will find restaurants who do work with the fishermen’s catch of the day. The absolute delicacy straight from the depths of cool Breton waters: lobster (le homard), whose flesh and flavour are much more delicate than those of its transatlantic counterpart.
While crêperies are ubiquitous and international cuisine is hard to find, there are a couple of very good French restaurants, notably in Perros-Guirec and Trébeurden.
The latter small town is not much to write home about but it does feature a Michelin-starred Hotel-Restaurant, Lan Kerellec, that people come from near and far to give their Black Amex a good workout. If your budget does not allow for uncapped spending, La Grève Blanche in Trégastel provides you with a memorable meal and a 180° panoramic view for a much more moderate sum. You can of course consult the trusted restaurant guide or app of your choice for other options, but keep in mind that, come October, many restaurants offer reduced service or go into hibernation. Call ahead. If you are self-catering at a gîte, there are plenty of farmers’ markets throughout the area offering excellent products and produce
Things To Do
Off-season, this is not the best area for a beach holiday. Most beaches, except for the two at Trébeurden, are east- or north-facing and don’t really get sun exposure. You also have ebb and flood to contend with – so check your tide tables before venturing out! Many tourists were stranded on one of the outlying islands as these were flooded by the incoming water, waiting for local rescue teams to pluck them off the boulders. While the Channel is receding, a walk in the tidepools, catching crabs or mussels, or throwing sticks for Fido to fetch is a popular pastime. With a little planning, you might even catch one of the glorious sunsets this region is known for.
There are plenty of opportunities to go out on the water. Rent a boat or a stand-up paddleboard, try snorkeling, or join a marine bird-watching excursion. The Lannion tourist office will provide addresses for rentals or local guides and instructors.
If you are more of a landlubber, there is plenty to do on shore. This area is perfect for hikes, especially along the beautiful coastal footpath called Sentier des Douaniers (aka GR 34). It is not overly demanding and has glorious views, which makes it a very popular trail, so expect to share it with others. If the path less traveled appeals more to you, simply follow one of the numerous small country roads on foot or by bike. Framed by ever-present hedges of colorful hydrangeas, these roads meander through ancient but still inhabited villages, and past cow pastures, tiny ponds, and huge menhirs. Breton drivers are careful, so cycling or driving is safe.
Feeling culturally inclined? Lannion’s bustling, well-preserved Old Town with its maze of medieval streets and merchant houses has a photo opportunity around every corner. Just a mile to the north, the sector of Brelevenez is home to architectural jewels, including a 12th-century church built by the Templars. The view from the church is breathtaking, but you need to walk up 142 steps. But that climb rewards you with a special setting: a row of quaint cottages on one side and sweeping vistas on the other.
Feeling culturally inclined? Lannion’s bustling, well-preserved Old Town with its maze of medieval streets and merchant houses has a photo opportunity around every corner. Just a mile to the north, the sector of Brelevenez is home to architectural jewels, including a 12th-century church built by the Templars. The view from the church is breathtaking, but you need to walk up 142 steps. But that climb rewards you with a special setting: a row of quaint cottages on one side and sweeping vistas on the other.
Another site, more spiritual in nature, is the restored ruins and grounds of the enormous Abbaye Beauport dating back 800 years and set in 130 acres of marshland. It once held a strategic role in terrestrial and maritime trade before being ravaged during the French Revolution. The ruins give a strong sense of the monastery’s layout and the monks’ daily life, from chapel to dormitories to kitchen with adjacent herb garden. And when at sunset the last golden rays kiss the ancient walls, they glow in otherworldly beauty.
And if you just can’t get enough of those old Breton cathedrals or Hobbit towns, venture to Tréguier. A little further away from the coast, it feels like it exists in multiple time periods at once. Founded in the 6th century by a Welsh monk, it sits right where two rivers meet the tides, and you can actually feel that rhythm when you’re walking around. The old half-timbered houses lean into narrow medieval streets with wonderfully wonky angles that make you wonder how they are still standing after 500 years. It is also the birthplace of philosopher Ernest Renan, and small as this speck on the map is, there is something about the place that feels quietly intellectual – like a town that’s seen enough history to have some serious thoughts about it all. The kind of place that makes you want to grab a tea and a book, and just let the world go by.
Kid-Friendly Suggestions
The Lannion Observatory is a fun way to introduce children to science. (Few people know Lannion is a French telecom and space hub, so you might find yourself standing next to a real-life astronaut.)
The Aquarium in Trégastel is not the largest of its kind, but its location – hewn in a massive granite boulder on the beach – makes for an unusual setting. It features marine flora and fauna native to the English Channel (La Manche).
Caveat: In some older guidebooks or websites, you may still see a reference to Village Gaulois. This popular tourist attraction sadly burned down in summer 2024. No plans for its reconstruction are currently underway.
Rocky Shores and Islands
So, finally, the question on everyone’s lips: why is this area called the Pink Granite Coast, and what are all these enormous boulders everywhere?
The Côte de Granit Rose owes its name to the pink-hued granite formations, sculpted over hundreds of millions of years by wind, water, and ice, and easily the size of skyscrapers. Some rise in isolated towers, others balance in improbable stacks as if giants had enjoyed a beach day here in the distant past. The stone shifts from pale salmon to deeper rose depending on the light, with veins of mica and quartz catching the sun like tiny sparks. Although present all along this stretch of coast, Trébeurden’s rocks are among the oldest in Brittany, roughly 600 million years old, weathered and sea-battered into shapes that predate the pink granite further east. Try to spot the people in this photo, this should give you a sense of their height:
Many have names: Le Père, a solitary upright stone; Le Dé, a cube-shaped block resting on a cluster of boulders; La Palette du Peintre, a shallow, rounded basin; Le Tas de Crêpes, layers stacked like pancakes; La Pince du Crabe, a notch resembling a crab’s claw; and La Couronne de Gradlon, a crown-like outline on Grève Blanche. Each stands as a landmark, a point of reference in a landscape defined by shape and scale rather than decoration.
Walking the coastal paths at Perros-Guirec and Ploumanac’h, boulders perch on cliffs and beaches in formations that appear deliberate yet remain random, shaped only by natural forces. Waves crash and recede, and sea spray polishes surfaces and edges. Over millennia, wind and water have softened contours into forms that feel both strange and familiar.
Offshore, a scattering of islands continues the coastline into the sea. These are the terrestrial boulders’ maritime relatives. The Sept-Îles archipelago, visible from Perros-Guirec, is a reserve for seabirds and seals. Landings are limited to Île aux Moines, where a lighthouse and priory ruins occupy a narrow ridge. Île Renote, linked to the mainland by a tidal causeway, is a quieter extension of the granite landscape. From Trébeurden, Île Molène lies a short foot crossing away, low and lined with beaches and coves. Each island changes the perspective on the coast, projecting the boulders into open water and giving a sense of just how far this sculpted landscape stretches. But just to redouble the reminder because it cannot be said often enough – do check those tide tables – the incoming flood is treacherous!
Demat, Breizh!* – Degemer mat
(*Hello Brittany! – “Welcome!”)
At the threshold to autumn, the coast is more about discovery than sandcastles. This is the time to observe seals resting undisturbed, watch seabirds wheeling over the islands, and walk paths where your footprints are the only ones for miles… the time when locals don’t see you as an intrusive species, as they are apt to view the summer tourists, but are actually happy to meet you. Even if the weather tilts toward rain or gusty winds, the experience is a quiet kind of pleasure: walking among 600-million-year-old rocks, watching the tide roll in, and feeling that the Côte de Granit Rose keeps some of its gentle magic just for those who linger a little longer.
A few everyday words in the Breton language
Hello: Demat (common greeting, informal) or Salud (less common, formal)
Welcome: Degemer mat
How are you? Penaos out? (informal, to one person), Penaos oc’h? (formal or plural)
Please: Mar plij
Thank you: Trugarez
Goodbye: Kenavo
Have a nice day: Bezañ laouen hiziv (literally, “Be happy today”)
Brittany: Breizh
All images © Natja Igney unless otherwise credited; lead image Phare de Ploumanac’h © Thierry Chapin
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