On y va : the Port City of Genoa on the Italian Riviera

Just two hours from Ventimiglia, the historic city of Genoa offers a wonderful weekend getaway filled with architecture, local cuisine and plenty of charm. 

Once known as one of the most powerful maritime republics, Genoa is best known today as the birthplace of the explorer Cristoforo Colombo. Upon exiting the Genova Piazza Principe train station, the towering marble Monumento a Cristoforo Colombo (adorned with four smaller statues personifying the values of Piety, Science, Constancy and Prudence) welcomes home its local inhabitants and visiting guests. 

Almost everyone has their own prescription on how to travel. Whether you prefer a strict guided tour filled with historical dates and facts, or you prefer to wander and get lost in circles just admiring anything and everything you see, here are some helpful tips you should consider while visiting Genoa.

On y va !

Your Guiding Compass

Unless you have an impeccable photographic memory, one cannot magically be an expert on navigating the windy streets of Genoa in just a few days. Let these five points act as a guide and compass to your destinations all over the city.

CENTRE

Serving as the epicentre of your map should be Piazza de Ferrari, Genoa’s main square and cross point between the historical and modern sections of the city. Around its vicinity is the Galleria Giuseppe Mazzini, the Art Nouveau-style covered walkway with shops and local offices; the Palazzo Ducale (the Doge’s Palace), once the primary residence of the head of state of the Republic of Genoa but now a major cultural centre hosting art exhibits and events; and ornate Catholic Churches of Chiesa di San Matteo and Cattedrale di San Lorenzo.

NORTH

Your Northern star would need to be the peaceful Villetta di Negro park, where you can sit and enjoy some greenery and listen to the running water from its picturesque waterfall peeking through lush trees.

SOUTH

The medieval section of Porta Soprana would be your South. Begin your journey to the 12th Century at the museum La Casa di Cristoforo Colombo,  an 18th-century reconstruction on the site of his childhood home, offering an intimate insight into his upbringing. Then wander just a few steps from the museum to the ruins of the Benedictine monastery Chiostro di Sant’Andrea (St. Andrew’s Cloisters). Turn right and continue your journey through the gate of the Mura del Barbarossa (sometimes referred to as the Walls of Genoa), your portal to the medieval part of the city, now lined with small artisanal shops and restaurants.

EAST

To the East is Porto Antico, Genoa’s historic harbour right on the Mediterranean. Here, one can enjoy the Biosphere, a spherical structure home to over 150 animal and plant species; the Museum of the History of Genoa; the Acquario di Genoa (Aquarium of Genoa); and the kitschy Vascello Neptune, a replica of a 17th-century Spanish galleon built for the 1986 Roman Polanski film Pirates.

WEST

To your West would be the main shopping area on Via XX Settembre. Here you will also find the Abbazia di Santo Stefano (Saint Stephen Abbey) and the food hall MOG Mercato Orientale. More on the food hall later.

Once you familiarize yourself with these bearings, navigating through the city will be much easier.

Inside & Out: The Architecture and Cityscape

Genoa’s prosperity began to rise during the First Crusade in the 11th Century. Just by traversing the city from one end to the other, one can see the strong influences of the Catholic Church, Romanesque and Baroque architectural styles, and its medieval history in its winding streets.

Art is everywhere from the outside building architecture to its museums – the major ones being the collective Musei di Strada Nuova: Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Doria-Tursi, former palaces now open to the public – and, of course, its Churches. One should take note and admire the two expressive lions in front of Cattedrale di San Lorenzo, or even walk in the Chiesa di San Filippo Neri and the Oratorio next door. (Make sure to look up the music events presented at the Oratorio di San Filippo Neri as I’m sure the acoustics are fabulous set against the backdrop of its Baroque design.)

For panoramic cityscapes, make time for the Belvedere Gennarino Sansone and Spianata di Castelletto if you are near Villetta di Negro. Time it right and you can enjoy some aperitivi at Calice wine bar while the sun sets.

Food, Glorious Food

Aside from your mission of taste-testing every variety of focaccia and farinata (better known as socca this side of the French Riviera) in Genoa, the food hall at MOG Mercato Orientale also offers plenty of choices, especially if you’re traveling with a group.

Surprisingly, the Kenyan food stall Chakula Chema was so memorable, my husband and I went twice for lunch. To get the full range of flavours, order the African Delicious sampler: beef samosa, bajia fritters, rice and coconut curry chicken, and chapati flatbread with coconut azuki bean sauce.

For a more local Ligurian flair, the restaurants Osteria Il Cadraio and Il Tondin are your best bets. Look out for the local pasta specialities (trofie; pansoti) and sauces (pesto; sarsa de noxe, or walnut sauce). As for secondi, if you’re lucky, there’s the Stinco al forno (oven-roasted pork) special of the day at Oesteria Il Cadrai or pick the O brasou (braised beef in red wine), a regular staple at the Il Tondin menu. Then, leave room for dessert with Il Tondin’s torta de la caza (the homemade hazelnut cookie) and ricotta ice cream.

It’s totally okay to overindulge – you should walk it off anyway with a nice post-dinner passeggiata or leisurely stroll, as Genoa at night provides an alternate intimate perspective.

When to Go

As it is situated in the Italian Riviera, Genoa is a wonderful travel destination year-round. The winters are mild and you might experience some rain in late winter or early spring. Then again, I do find the shimmer of the wet streets at night utterly glorious and picturesque.

Although not a main tourist destination as Cinque Terre, Genoa does get an overflow of crowds from the surrounding areas as it’s only an hour away.

If you’re looking for a quick Italian escape filled with food, history and art, get your train tickets and head to Genoa!

PLACES OF INTEREST

PHOTO CREDITS

• Lead image by Bart Ros on Unsplash; licenced under the Unsplash licence
• All other photographs courtesy and © Marcus Gualberto