Explore the unique Riso Musso of Piedmont, where tradition and exquisite taste intertwine in Italian cuisine.
We are always on the lookout for exceptional specialities, and nowhere else can we find them as easily as in Piedmont. Here, at the heart of Italian food culture and at the epicentre of the international slow food movement, tradition and avant-garde come together in a natural and elegant way.
The rolling hills of the Langhe, nestled in the provinces of Cuneo and Asti, are home to iconic delicacies: the noble Barolo, the precious white truffle from Alba and the famous Tonda Gentile hazelnut. A landscape that invites you to marvel, cook and savour – and in which rice plays a very special role. Because here in Piedmont, water, climate, landscape and centuries-old tradition come together – a stroke of luck for all those who take flavour seriously.
I particularly love Carnaroli rice, the most popular rice variety in Italy and an indispensable basis for a perfect risotto. Its ability to absorb flavours without losing its characteristic al dente consistency makes it unique. A natural and universal product that goes perfectly with fish, meat, vegetables and, of course, classic risotto. Risotto coated in Parmesan? A poem!
While there are already around 500 rice sommeliers working in Japan, there are only a few dozen certified ones in Italy. Spain and Singapore follow at a distance with only a few specialists. These figures show how exclusive this knowledge is. The right rice is much more than just an ingredient: it is the basis for creativity, enjoyment and well-being.
There is always a touch of magic in the air. But is it really magic – or rather craftsmanship, centuries-old knowledge and tireless labour? To unravel this mystery, we spoke to Matteo Musso: Rice sommelier, producer and passionate guardian of a tradition deeply rooted in Piedmont. His perspectives open up a view of a world in which terroir, technology and sustainability form an extraordinary culinary balance.
We’re delighted, dear Matteo – let’s get started right away:
You follow an environmentally conscious approach with your Azienda Agricola Musso farm. In your agriculture, you follow the ‘Integrated Environmental Management’ regime of the Piedmont region (‘Coltivazione Misura Integrata Ambientale’). This means that the use of agrochemicals is reduced and the aim is to cultivate the soil as naturally as possible – in other words, much more sustainably than conventionally.
What obstacles do you currently see to environmentally friendly cultivation methods in Piedmont, and what measures are proving particularly effective in reducing the use of agrochemicals?
The cultivation of high-quality rice varieties such as Baraggia Biellese and Vercellese DOP is currently associated with numerous challenges. The variety used is an original historical variety, unlike many commercially available ‘Carnaroli’ rice varieties, which bear this name but are in fact other varieties. The authentic variety has a lower yield per hectare, but impresses with its unrivalled quality.
Italy has the strictest and most rigorous regulations in Europe for rice cultivation. This makes the work more difficult, especially as the plants are now exposed to fungi and pests that did not originally occur in the region and jeopardise harvests. At the same time, Italian producers have to compete with products from countries that do not fulfil comparable requirements.
Despite this, or perhaps precisely because of this, our rice is considered to be one of the best, if not the best, on the market. The products used are selected with the utmost care and the long waiting times guarantee absolute purity – there can be no contamination. In addition, the natural husk completely protects the grain from modern pesticides. The result: a residue-free product.
How do you see the future of rice and risotto in haute cuisine and what developments do you expect in terms of ingredients, preparation and presentation?
Rice and risotto have enormous potential that is far from being exhausted. Although they are less present internationally than pasta or pizza, they are enjoying growing popularity in both the private and professional sectors. With more visibility and information, they could easily become other great icons of Italian cuisine.
The basic prerequisite is the use of authentic and high-quality Italian varieties. Equally important is an awareness of the differences between the varieties:
- Carnaroli: medium sized grains, high resistance to cooking, low starch release – ideal for an al dente and grainy risotto.
- S. Andrea: medium-sized grains, high starch release – for a velvety creaminess and a soft consistency.
- Arborio: large grains, medium starch release, good cooking stability – a versatile classic.
There is no objectively ‘better’ rice, only the one that is suitable for the desired consistency and flavour. Restaurants should therefore offer at least these three varieties and prepare risottos according to their guests’ preferences.
What role does modified atmosphere packaging play in your price and quality strategy – and what do you think of alternatives to plastic?
The modified atmosphere is essential for a natural product like rice. It preserves freshness, prevents insect infestation by removing oxygen and stops the development of eggs, a phenomenon that often only becomes visible after opening. Rice is a natural product; small organisms can develop on contact with air, heat and insects. This can be reliably avoided if the rice is stored correctly – well sealed, cool and dark.
What interests us … what do you eat at Christmas?
In addition to the classic Piedmontese starters, our Christmas traditions also include a risotto with Toma Biellese and Gattinara – a timeless regional dish that for us is inextricably linked to the Christmas holidays.
Thank you very much, dear Matteo! You are an impressive example of how tradition, expertise and sustainability merge into a unique culinary symbiosis in Piedmont. One thing I already know: rice is another piece in the mosaic that makes the “Made in Italy” brand an international flagship.
Dear readers, words can only give you a flavour, so why not try the rice for yourself? Here is a tried and tested risotto recipe that we can recommend!
Risotto with Toma Biellese
The creamy consistency of the risotto goes perfectly with the tangy flavour of Toma Biellese cheese. It is usually prepared with Arborio or Carnaroli rice and often refined with local ingredients such as vegetable stock, white wine and fresh herbs to bring out its full flavour.
All photos courtesy Riso Musso, unless otherwise credited; background image in recipe by Lucas Lobak Neves on Unsplash
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